archival allure



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books, cardigans, glasses, oxfords, skirts, buns, metadata and mylar, vintage and classic.

Part lookbook and archival evidence, part style diary, two information professionals (as well as a host of guest authors) seek personal style outside of the stereotypes.

e-mail us at
archival.allure AT gmail DOT com



benchmarks
A Cat of Impossible Colour
Academichic
Blue Collar Catwalk
Casey's Elegant Musings
The Cherry Blossom Girl
The Clothes Horse
The Gleam of Rose Tea
My Edit
Orchid Grey
The Snail and The Cyclops






about our avatar:
McCall Magazine, Night Before Xmas
from Eastman House Flickr Commons






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life


08:29 pm, by archival-allure2 notes Comments

1940s LBD via Life Archive


Based on la’s post it seems like the demure quality of the librarian look has been mistaken for something akin to cold oatmeal. Reading Liebmarlene Vintage’s recent post offers an alternative. The clothes by Ingrid Starnes provides looks that are mysterious not drab.

Confession: If I.S. were a saint I would pray to her each morning. I’ve tired of the eyelet, gingham, madras, and chambray that have overrun le vêtements d’été. 

Ingrid provides us with something dusty and sophisticated. I feel her collection balances femininity with some bit of mystery. The clothes inspired from 1930’s and 1940’s silhouettes are created in livable, everyday colors and cuts. You won’t stand out in these looks but you’re sure to be noticed.





Her fall collection is equally inspirational visit http://www.ingridstarnes.com/.
//ecw a.k.a. miss-zola

1940s LBD via Life Archive

Based on la’s post it seems like the demure quality of the librarian look has been mistaken for something akin to cold oatmeal. Reading Liebmarlene Vintage’s recent post offers an alternative. The clothes by Ingrid Starnes provides looks that are mysterious not drab.

Confession: If I.S. were a saint I would pray to her each morning. I’ve tired of the eyelet, gingham, madras, and chambray that have overrun le vêtements d’été.

Ingrid provides us with something dusty and sophisticated. I feel her collection balances femininity with some bit of mystery. The clothes inspired from 1930’s and 1940’s silhouettes are created in livable, everyday colors and cuts. You won’t stand out in these looks but you’re sure to be noticed.

Her fall collection is equally inspirational visit http://www.ingridstarnes.com/.

//ecw a.k.a. miss-zola

01:32 pm, by archival-allure2 notes Comments

skirting around

hems

What is the appropriate skirt length for work? Thoughts? I’m not totally sure.

While this skirt is not terribly short by today’s fashion standards, it actually is short by my own granny-like standards. Now that I’m in my ahem, late twenties, I’ve gotten a little shy about shorter lengths, sticking mostly to knee length or below, so this skirt was actually a bit of a stretch for me. My saving grace were the tights, which helped me feel a bit more covered. 

tights

Otherwise, I think this outfit has a bit of a style nod to la’s school girl prep post. My updated take on this look consists of textured hose, oxfords, a blouse with lace detail, navy trench, and a bright madras scarf to break up all the blues.

 

Just a note on the archival image (courtesy of Life) the title of this image is “Mrs. O’Neil pinning up hems on all ten of her daughter’s dresses” … TEN daughters! 

ev

10:41 pm, by archival-allure Comments

The Red Coats

Life magazine archival image. Featured model wearing brilliant red wool coat in college fashions article.

photo

Who doesn’t love a red red coat?

No, not the British… (although I was the sole Loyalist in my high school AP American History class)… I mean who doesn’t love a deliciously red topper for those unusually cold and gloomy days?

Well I love mine* and when the seasons change I like to take some time to do a little protection and care, which in this case that meant doing some repairs to tears in the lining.

This is my coat it features:

* = Mom found it for only 10$ at an estate sale in Oklahoma. Do I need to tell you how much I love estate sales?


The repairs: Below is a little photo sequence showing how to repair a coat lining and thus prolong this favorite winter garment. Tally ho!

Ta da!

This post leaves me wondering…  What’s your ‘change of season’ rituals? I have quite a few.

  1. I sort out the pieces I don’t want anymore. I put them in a pile for Buffalo Exchange, Good Will, or the clothing swap.
  2. I repair my favorite pieces (see above). I also take a few things to the cleaners.
  3. I go through my summer and spring clothes and purge the unwanted pieces again. 
  4. Before packing up the boxes I leave out several springy garments to get me through those awkward weeks when the days are warm and the nights are cold (currently in ATX we’re experiencing highs in the mid 70s and lows in the mid 30s).
  5. I pull all of my spring/summer whites for a whitening treatment (maybe a post to follow).

(This process could be done all at once but I find it easier to do over a couple of afternoons while avoiding school work. )

//ecw a.k.a. miss-zola

07:16 pm, by archival-allure Comments

Ribbons! 3.1 Phillip Lim DIY necklace project

Life Archive Photo, 1940s Caption: Model wearing ear muffs made from velvet ribbons.

I saw some spring 2010 necklaces on the La Garçonne (a shopping site that has good deals on runway looks once in a blue moon) and thought to myself, “can I do that?”

Fun Fact:

*According to wikipedia La Garçonne (The Bachelor Girl or The Flapper) is a 1936 French black and white film adaptation of the novel of the same name by Victor Margueritte. It was directed by Jean de Limur, and starred Marie Bell (in the title role), Arletty and Edith Piaf.


I need help with this project!

With all the folding and pleating this project would involve I’m entreating our conveservation-trained followers to offer advice on how to proceed. The website offers alot of details about how these necklaces were made (they are pasted in below). I wonder if they foresaw that these descriptions invite re-engineering? Suckers!

First, I looking to identify which of the following designs below is the most realizable given my novice DIY skill set.

Second, I seek suggestions on which tools I need in addition to tips on how to make the pleats and folds necessary. Any advice would be welcome.

Retail: 250$

Satin Accordion Pleated Necklace by 3.1 Phillip Lim.  Accordion pleated ribbon necklace with black pearl accents and chiffon bow closure.

1.8” Sage ribbon is pleated / Angled accordion pleating / Black pearls sit in between each pleat at inner edge of necklace / Gold hinges attach necklace to leather pieces / Black chiffon ribbon attached to leather ties necklace together at back neck / Mini gold ‘PL’ placket at clasp / Color: Sage / 51% Acetate, 49% Cotton.

Approx. 37” Long.

Shown (in black) with / 3.1 Phillip Lim Tank with Metallic Python Trim, 3.1 Phillip Lim Belted Harem Pant / Alexandra Neel Ankle Boot with Lace-Up Back.

Retail: 225$

Symmetrical Origami Fold Necklace by 3.1 Phillip Lim.  Folded origami grosgrain ribbon necklace with contrastin necktie and rhinestones.

5/8” Wide cream grosgrain ribbon ties at back neck / Metal ‘PL’ placket is sewn to one end / Front of necklace is geometric folded 1” wide black grosgrain ribbon / Black piece is embroidered with various rhinestones - clear, clear covered with black tulle, leather & gold / Brass clamps at bases of cream ribbon ties / Color: Black / 100% Cotton /  Dustbag included.

Length: 50”.

Retail: 175$

Beaded Origami Fold Necklace by 3.1 Phillip Lim.  Long black grosgrain ribbon origami folded necklace with beaded applique.

Slips over head without clasp / Necklace is of origami folded 1/2” wide grosgrain ribbon (in navy) / Folded 1.5” wide black grosgrain hangs down at front / Gunmetal rivets at ends / Black pieces is decorated with silver & gold tube beads and clear rhinestones / Mini metal ‘PL’ placket at back neck / Color: Black / 100% Cotton / Dustbag included.

Length: 32”.

Retail: 150$

Origami Fold Necklace by 3.1 Phillip Lim.  Origami folded dove grey grosgrain ribbon necklace with rhinestone details.

Black grosgrain ribbon ties are 1” wide / Origami folded 1.5” wide grosgrain ribbon hangs at front / Ties are decorated with: square leather covered rhinestones, square & circular clear rhinestones covered in black tulle, and a circular clear rhinestone / Color: Dove Grey / 100% Cotton / Dustbag included.

Length: 50”.

So far I am most intrigued by the 4th necklace.

What do you think?

//ecw a.k.a. miss-zola

09:26 am, by archival-allure3 notes Comments

From the LIFE photo archives on Google, “Short belted dress bought by Julie Nixon, designed by Robert Malcolm w. ‘paper doll’ tabs,” 1970.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the fabric was polyester and the belt plastic.  That said, I love the asymetry, the gigantic pocket and the wide collar.  This same dress in wool, over some wine-colored tights and with a drapey cardigan and boots might be my perfect February work ensemble.
Librarian’s sidenote on using Google to search for LIFE images:  There’s an entire series of these dresses from the women of the Nixon whitehouse and I have no idea what the paperdoll tabs are about.  The title and date above, along with the photographer’s name and images dimensions are the only metadata given.  This lack of context is all the more frustrating when you know there was an entire magazine story to accompany these images, though who knows in what issue it appeared.
One final comment.  Not all the Nixon ladies’ ensembles stand the test of time…
la

From the LIFE photo archives on Google, “Short belted dress bought by Julie Nixon, designed by Robert Malcolm w. ‘paper doll’ tabs,” 1970.

I wouldn’t be surprised if the fabric was polyester and the belt plastic.  That said, I love the asymetry, the gigantic pocket and the wide collar.  This same dress in wool, over some wine-colored tights and with a drapey cardigan and boots might be my perfect February work ensemble.

Librarian’s sidenote on using Google to search for LIFE images:  There’s an entire series of these dresses from the women of the Nixon whitehouse and I have no idea what the paperdoll tabs are about.  The title and date above, along with the photographer’s name and images dimensions are the only metadata given.  This lack of context is all the more frustrating when you know there was an entire magazine story to accompany these images, though who knows in what issue it appeared.

One final comment.  Not all the Nixon ladies’ ensembles stand the test of time…

la

09:33 am, by archival-allure1 note Comments